May 2007

Weekend Update 5-20-2007

As of now, I'll be dropping down to a couple of updates per week, as I'm coming into the busy season of my work, and I'll actually be doing instead of just writing in the garden.

 Transplanted the Beefsteak tomatoes that have been growing under the LED's - the red one's not looking too good (my fault, not the LED's). They'll be going out to the garden soon, and something else will be growing here (I can't wait!).

 They just keep growing and growing... I tried one of the leaves (the plant on the right), it tastes... well, it'd be good steamed - it's more like beet greens than anything else I can think of - kind of peppery. In the back on the right, there's a "Matt's Wild Cherry" starting up.

 The Upside-Down experiment is starting again, this time with out my big head getting in the way. May have to bring it in during vacation so I can keep it watered, but that should be the only change.

My compost is smellin', but my seeds are gellin'!

Just ran across this while I was looking for other things, and had to write about it. Using gel to start vegetable seeds early, including the gel recipe! Love it - this is a wonderful hack: "...Pre-germinating seed indoors is helpful in early spring because sprouted seed will grow in soils too cool for germination. It's easy to sprout seeds on moistened paper towels sealed in a plastic bag for a few days. The difficult part is to sow fragile young seedlings without injury to them. The solution is sowing in a fluid gel. ..." Link

Weekend Update (belated)

Other than forgetting my daughter's Godmother's birthday and this, o/` o/`the ol' grey mat-ter's still what she used to be...o/` o/` Anyway - everything's still growing:

Tomatoes are still keeping up with their peers
	Vitamin Greens are growing out of their containers.

Beyond that, I've got the soaker hoses out in the rows, lumber for the raised beds, the asparagus popped up over the weekend and tastes great - I may "cheat" and get some 2 yr old asparagus if I can still find them and put the minto the next bed - they taste great (I originally grew these from seed).

Your path to Success(ion Planting)

Maximizing your yield without increasing your size - sounds like it comes from a management guru. It's possible in your garden as well. Wouldn't you like to increase the amount of fresh veggies you get without having to till another seven rows? I would - I don't tend to till, but I'd still like to keep some of the land for other things (like fruit trees!), but I digress. Succession planting can be done throughout the growing season, and intermixed with other plants to take advantage of the shade or the sun, depending. "...Most gardeners practice a simple succession planting in row gardens by following a lettuce planting in spring with a late crop of, say, beans, or by staggering plantings of beans or sweet corn to ensure a steady harvest. Staggered plantings also work well with lettuce, radishes and other fast-yielding crops. I've even been known to plant lettuce under my corn so it has plenty of shade. Carrots grow especially well this way. Be warned! Succession planting demands careful attention to days-to-maturity for each vegetable you plant, and attention to soil fertility to keep the intensively planted vegetables growing well. ..." Link

As some plants need their space all summer (pumpkins come to mind,) and others don't (like lettuce), sitting down and planning when and where the plants will go and grow will bring success in this endeavor There's a nice chart located here: Link

"... With the first method, you divide the garden space that you allot for corn into three or four portions. Then plant each section one to two weeks apart.

"A second method is to choose four different varieties with four different maturity dates. Again, divide your garden space into three or four sections. But, this time, plant is all varieties at once. A variation of this is to plant the early corn first, the next type one week or so later, and so on. If you are planting a lot of corn, this gives a small break in between harvests. As much as we all love corn on the cob, some people do get tired of it, if it is eaten too frequently. ..." Link, including some good examples.

Good weeds, dude! ...

Okay, I know, that was "like, so last century!" - Anyway: there are actually some "weeds" that are good (so why do we call them weeds? Hmmm.). There are weeds that are edible, pest repellants, provide shelter and/or habitat for benificial organisms, "trap crops", and more. Wikipedia has a good base source of this information at this link.

Tilthproducers.org has some expanded information on this, including "Beneficial Weeds and Insectary Plants":
"...Nectar and pollen are important for the survival of beneficial insects when hosts are scarce. Access to nectar and pollen sources increases the longevity and egg laying ability of the beneficial insects and thus their effectiveness in controlling pests.For many predators, hosts are scarce during midsummer. When designing the system it is important to determine when pest populations are likely to be at their peak so the main bloom of insectary plants will attract beneficial insects at the same time. A good strategy when using native weeds or planting insectary plants (in the case of annuals or biennials), or those with overlapping bloom periods (in the case of perennials) to provide flowers throughout critical times. ..." Link

The use of "Headlands" may be out of reach for most gardens, but the idea is intriguing enough for me to include it here:"...The rich floral diversity of this conservation headland is providing an excellent nectar source for insects which in turn provide food for birds. ..." Link

Companions to plant in with your vegetables as well as use yourself are listed at "commongroundinpaloalto.org": "... Companions and Effects:
Basil --> Companion to tomatoes; dislikes rue intensely. Improves growth and flavor Repels flies and mosquitoes.

Beebalm --> Companion to tomatoes; improves growth and flavor.

Borage --> Companion to tomatoes, squash and strawberries; deters tomato worm; improves growth and flavor.

Caraway --> Plant here and there; loosens soil.

Catnip --> Plant in borders; deters flea beetle.

Chamomile --> Companion to cabbages and onions; improves growth and flavor

Chervil --> Companion to radishes; improves growth and flavor

Chives --> Companion to carrots; improves growth and flavor

Dead nettle --> Companion to potatoes; deters potato bug; improves growth and flavor ..." the list goes on Link

Indicator Weeds - What's your soil up to?

Seems weeds can tell you alot about your soil: what's there and what's lacking. If the soil's lacking what most plants need, these indicator weeds will come in, take root and muscle out the other plants. So what to do? Fortunately there's a lot of information out there. From Ontario, we get some hints: "...3) Some weeds or plant species are signs of poor fertility. For example, Orange Hawk Weed (Devil's Paint Brush) are signs of low phosphorus. Poor establishment and survival of legumes indicate a possible low pH problem. The appearance of moss can mean low nitrogen levels and/or poor soil drainage. Taking a soil test is the first step to determine how to correct these problems. ..." omafra.gov.on.ca

Greenmanradio.com has a very good list that cross-references many different soil conditions: "...White clover (Trifolium repens) loves wet but infertile conditions. I'll bet there's some red sorrel (Rumex acetosella) around too, since it loves the wet, acidic Oregon soil. Check the table below for several kinds of indicator weeds and the soil conditions they thrive in. ..." greenmanradio.com

Mother Earth News, in 1987 - had an especially good article on weeds, including what many of them indicate: "...Acid soil: Ox-eye daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), curly dock (Rumex crispus), sheep sorrel (Rumex acetosella), sow thistle (Sonchus species), prostrate knotweed (Poly-gonum aviculare), lady's-thumb (Polygonum persicaria), wild strawberries (Fragaria species), plantain (Plantago major), rough cinquefoil (Potentilla monspeliensis), silvery cinquefoil (Potentilla argentea), hawkweeds (Hieracium aurantiacum and pratense), knapweeds (Centaurea species).

"Alkaline soil: Field peppergrass (Lepidium virginicum), goosefoot (Chenopodium species), gromwell (Lithospermum officinale), true chamomile (Anthemis nobilis), bladder campion (Silene latifolia). ..." the list goes on and on! motherearthnews.com

For turf management: http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/indicator_weeds.htm

Too Antsy, Too Early

I'm itching to plant - it's been very warm in Western MA for the last week, and my garden looks like a line of giant flat brown rotting caterpillars on my lawn. The raspberries are starting to recover from being transplanted, the carrots I'd planted too late in the season last year are starting to grow under the shadecloth, and my grow-table is full of seedlings that are trying to push my lights aside. But - as I've been reminded - we live in New England, where "If you don't like the weather, wait for a minute." almost always holds true. So, with that in mind, and some kind words from a local ham radio operator that's good with tools, dirt, antennas, and more, I've done some research on the effects of early planting on tomatoes.

Time and time again, I run into "don't transplant too early": "...As a rule, home gardeners are too anxious to grow tomatoes. Quite often they will start tomato seeds much too early indoors and plant transplants out-of-doors too early as well. Early varieties of tomatoes can be planted around mid-May if they are covered with a frost protection device (cap). Main season varieties should be planted no earlier than the third week of May, preferably around May 30. Over the years we have seen many gardeners have poor results due to early planting. ..." Link

Reasons, and a crop for short seasons:"...'Tomatoes require warmer temperatures to produce pollen and pollinate,' says Randy Gardner, a professor at the Mountain Horticultural Crops Research and Extension Center in Fletcher, North Carolina, who specializes in hybridizing tomatoes and other vegetables.

"What makes some of the newly introduced varieties so different? The plants begin producing fruit without bothering to wait for the flowers to pollinate. (This quality, called by the fancy name of "parthenocarpic," also means that these tomatoes are naturally seedless, at least early in the season.) If you live in an area with unusually cool, cloudy weather, you want to look for parthenocarpic tomatoes because you'll get fruit whether the plants pollinate or not, says Jim Myers, professor of vegetable breeding and horticulture at Oregon State University in Corvallis, Oregon. One of Myers' most popular new tomatoes is a variety called Legend. 'If you start it early, you can have fruit by the third week of July, and it will set fruit even in greenhouses,' he says. ..." Link

Also:"...Planting too early stresses plants due to cool air and soil temperatures. In addition, tomatoes are very sensitive to frost and will be killed by temperatures below 32° F. ..." Link

And Finally:"...Even if you protect them from frost, they are extremely vulnerable to pathogens in cool, damp conditions. Resist the urge to set out your transplants on a warm sunny day in March or April. It’s bound to get cold again, and those babies will be shivering and soaking up all sorts of bad fungi, viruses and bacteria. I have learned this lesson the hard way. My ultimate advice: find what the last average frost date is in your area, then plant two weeks after that. ..." Link

When When When??? "...Many novices fail at starting tomatoes simply because they start too early. Given the proper care, full-sized tomato transplants can be grown in 6 to 8 weeks. Before planting seeds, you must determine when your plants can be safely placed into the garden. Planting outdoors is best done about 1 or 2 weeks after the average last frost date for your area. ..."

Ok, how do you do it right? "...Introduce the plants to outdoor conditions slowly. This is called "hardening off". If it is not done slowly your plants may be shocked and their growth may temporarily cease. The longer the plants remains indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate them to the outdoors. Avoid full sun and wind when you first move them outside. ..." Link

The gardeners in my area have found that side by side, a tomato plant set out too early will never produce as well as one that's been planted patiently. Hoping my early plantings that are in sheltered pots will survive - so far they're looking about as happy as the plants indoors, though they do have more room.

Garden Cures for Garden Ills

There are a lot of cures for ills in the garden, most of the "off the shelf" varieties are now being poo-pooed as destructive, eco-unfriendly, poisonous, etc. There are many books available that have a plethora of quick fixes, tonics, and more "guaranteed" to help your ailing garden, which I'll cover in a future installment. For now, I'll share a few of the better links I've found:

• From The Tinker's Garden.com - "...Rooting Roses with Willow Water The rooting capability of Willow Water was discovered in the 1960's by Dr. Kawase of The Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center at Wooster.
  To make Willow water for rooting difficult woods plant cuttings do the following. Cut the current years tender green growth from any Willow tree. Remove the leaves and cut the small stems into 1 inch pieces. For best results crush the cutting with a hammer or split the stems. Place the small stem cuttings in a small container and cover with 2 inches of Hot water and cover. Allow the stems steep 24 hours. ..." Link
• From Nichol's Garden Nursery, as well as NewScientist.com, a good cheap cure for powdery mildew: "...Milk may have potential as a fungicide. A report in the October 16 1999 edition of New Scientist suggests that spraying diluted milk on cucumbers and courgettes (zucchini) may be effective in killing powdery mildew, caused by the mold Sphaerotheca fulinginea. This could be a significant benefit for organic farmers trying to meet the growing demand for chemical free vegetables. ..." Link the recipe is as follows: 1 part Milk 9 parts Water
  Also note, from the Tinker's Garden: "...Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on plants by 90%. While some gardeners may be tempted to increase the concentration of milk for more control, Bettiol found that once concentrations rose above 30%, an innocuous fungus began to grow on the plants. ..."
• Save your eggshells during the year until you have enough for your planting. Put a little potting soil into each shell and plant your seeds. When the seedling get big enough to plant in the garden just crush the shell as you put the plant in the hole, shell and all. As times goes on the shells will break down and release calcium and other essential minerals into the soil. This is especially useful with tomatoes because the extra calcium will help prevent blossom end rot. - Link
• Citrus oils are being used for everything nowadays, makes me wonder what Tropicana and Sunkist did back in the 20th century with all their rinds. "...Herbicides made from various citrus oils and from oils of cloves and cinnamon work every bit as well as concentrated vinegar, and they smell a whole lot better, too. 'Actually, I know of at least one product that combines citrus oils and concentrated vinegar for that one-two punch," James says. "But again, although that may sound like the basis for a tasty vinaigrette, these products should never be used for cooking or eating.' ..." Link

Sustainable Hacks -Eco-Conscious Gardening

I started with the whole Sustainable Agriculture from a Farm standpoint, then brought it down to the garden, then realized I'm trying to keep it short and to the point. This brought me here: "...Integrated Pest Management (IPM) techniques can be as simple as planting companion plants to attract beneficial insects, introducing beneficial insects to your garden or making your own pesticides from ingredients you may already have on hand such as borax, ammonia and beer. IPM controls are preferable to chemical pesticides. However, when it is absolutely necessary to use a pesticide, choose the least toxic product. ..." Includes benificial insects, plants and more. Link

Here's a quick and easy recipe for one acre of sustainable soil: Link

Ok - most of us don't have the ability to move that much soil, so here's a better idea that's more accessible: "...RECIPE FOR SOIL BUILDING: Organic fertilizers + microbial activity = Soil fertility, healthy plants, and resistance to insect attacks. A healthy, organic garden produces strong plants that are able to withstand adverse conditions. The consistent traits and habits needed to make good soil can also help build fertility in our lives. ..." The link goes on to many aspects of sustainable gardening. Great educational site. Link

Saturday Home Review - Success and the Demise of the Acrobatic Tomato Plant

Well, been busy throughout the weekend, so this update's coming out monday afternoon, but the back yard no longer looks like a martian terrain.  They just keep growing. The "Vitamin Greens" from Johnny's Select Seeds are growing along - the ones that did survive (four total). Modifications for the second hydroponic low-maintenance "tank" will include a larger cup (probably from Dunkin Donuts, as I collect them slowly), and that's probably about it. I may start the plants outside of the tank and transfer them in, so they don't get their feet soaked too early. I'll be doing more research, at any rate.

 The Tomatoes are coming along as well. The Blue LED is definitely growing taller, while the red appears to have a little bit more in the leaves department, with the white looking like it's right in between.

Alas, my big head took out our upside-down tomato plant while I was watering some of the others - bent it and pinched it right off. A small tear was shed, then another seed was immediately planted and it's not "topsy-turvy" at the moment: it'll be upright 'til it grows a few more leaves, and I can find a place where it won't get knocked down.

The rest of the plants continue to grow, almost all the plants I can start inside have been started. Enjoying the warmer weather and itching to move everything outside!

Remember to Eat Your Weedies

Lawn Aikido

Killing the weeds? Why? They're pervasive (aka "easy to grow"). So? If you had easy to grow mangos and figs in Zone 4, would you call them weeds? I don't think so. How about that Kentucky Blue? Can you eat that? Not really. There's two solutions that I can think of for Lawn weeds: eating them, as I've mentioned, or crowding them out with other plants you'd like even better. For the edible solution, here's some basic guidelines you must follow: "...Your Weeds You, too can collect edible weeds, but keep but keep this in mind:

• Never eat part of any plant unless you have positively identifyed the plant and know that it is edible.
• Before collecting dandelions or other edible plants from your lawn or park, find out if they were been treated with herbicides to kill the weeds. If so, plants themselves will have absorbed some of the poison and they will be unsafe to eat.
• If you see decaying pet (dog, cat, ect.) waste near the plants avoid collecting from that area. Dangerous bacteria grow on these decaying wastes.
• When harvesting edible plants do not take them all. Leaving some untouched will help ensure that there will be another crop of wild foods in the future. ..."

Recipes to after the Link Edible Estates - by Fritz Haeg shows how and why you can and should change your lawn habits (via treehugger tv)Link
No highspeed internet or just looking for pics? Here's more of Fritz Haeg's work: Link
So why do this? "...As one might imagine, edible landscape elements are those that can be used for food, as well as for ornamental beauty. Vegetables, herbs and fruits can add variety and color to the landscape, and if well maintained, they can also look very attractive and even add a touch of elegance. Most people prefer to keep the edible elements of their landscape to the back portions of their property. While this may be reasonable for a more conventional garden plot, a well placed squash patch in the front yard or beautiful raspberry bushes against a fence can look quite attractive anywhere on your property, and fruit trees are always welcome. Strawberries and herbs make excellent ground cover and peppers and tomato plants make excellent accents in flower gardens. ..."Link
Over across the pond, they're busy too: an incredible before/after of a rooftop garden: "... From this seed of an idea grew a forest garden – food-producing, low maintenance, no-dig – based on a natural woodland ecosystem. It was designed to be an educational tool for raising awareness of global issues, including sustainable development and the economic and historical importance of plants. ..." Link

Looking at my Lowly Lawn (yawn yawn yawn)...

... a poet I'm not. I'm also not in love with grass. Aside from allergies, I find the chore of lawn mowing a waste of time and a waste of resources. Why do we have this thing, other than to be able to see if snakes are encroaching on "our" territory? Well, a little history:

"... Lawns started out as grazing areas around the manors of the landed gentry. Having a nice lawn around the house was a sign of power as you owned sufficient land to raise sheep and cow.

"As the industrial revolution took hold and animals were less a sign of wealth, the lawn itself became the status symbol. You could indulge yourself in sparing land and time to recreational grounds.

"As people moved to the cities so did the grass, on ever smaller plots. First lawns were cut by hand and later with the mechanical lawnmower, (an automated, resource depleting, pointless cow.) ..." Link

So what are the alternatives? How about a Clover Lawn via About.com? Link

Or how about a Moss Lawn, for those shady areas? Link

There's always a Chamomile Lawn, for something a little more fragrant Link

And the veritable Oregano Lawn: "... There are three of these prostrate or creeping oregano gems: CREEPING OREGANO (Origanum vulgare humile, formerly, Origanum compactum nanum) is a brilliant green; CREEPING GOLDEN MARJORAM, (Origanum vulgare aureum) is a golden green in spring and fall and dark green in summer; and MOUNDING MARJORAM (Origanum marjorana 'Betty Rollins') which is a darker green with a hint of red, a wonderful minty fragrance and a small pink flower stalk. Most exciting is the lack of labor and precision these plants require. Don't feel like mowing this week? Skip it. In fact, they could be left for a once a year shearing. They will not look woody after and the scalped look should disappear in two to three weeks. However, mowing twice a month during the growing season keeps the "lawn look" going and satisfies those who want flat green and neat. ..." Link

Here's a few more possibilities to ponder as I head out and try to find my soudproof earphones, my oil and my gas can... for now... Link

Comfrey: Sustainable Gardening's Deep Rooted Friend

comfrey Fertilizer: "...CORRECT THE NUTRIENT BALANCE Although the high potassium content in this liquid fertilizer promotes flowers and fruit, it may be considered too high for general use. It can however be adapted by mixing with other garden-made fertilizers. To make a more evenly balanced fertilizer may I suggest mixing 1 part Comfrey liquid with about 19 parts worm tea for an estimated N.P.K ratio of 2.5 : 2.2 : 2.5 % - then dilute. (This assumes that worm tea has the same composition as the worm casts and of course worm casts will vary in composition according to how the worms are fed.) ..." Link
"... Comfrey fertilizer: With its' high levels of potash comfrey tea can be used as an excellent fertilizer for tomato, pepper, cucumber and potato plants. The smell while it is "cooking" is strong. Pick a good sized handful of leaves. Place them in a container with enough water to cover the leaves. Cover and let this cook for 4 weeks in cool weather or 2 weeks in hot weather. Then squeeze the leaves to extract as much juice as possible Strain and use at a rate of 1/3 cup 0f comfrey juice to one gallon of water Use as a foliar feed and soil drench around the plants. Put the solid wastes into the compost pile. ..." Link
"...Lastly, comfrey is used for fertilizer. The leaves decompose easily, thus are used to accelerate compost. Comfrey leaves are used as mulch, as well as to line potato, sweet pea and bean trenches for nutrients. A fertilizer can be made by taking a water-tight container and putting a bunch of ripped up comfrey leaves in it, then water to cover them. Seal and leave alone for 2 weeks in hot weather and 4 weeks in cold weather. Drain off the foul smelling liquid, as it is full of potash, which tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and peppers thrive on. Mix 1/3 of the comfrey liquid with one gallon of water as fertilizer to water plants with. ..." Link
Comfrey. (herb plant) In my garden my main source of fertilizer is the herb plant comfrey as a liquid. At the same time it is a foliage spray and insect deterrent. It is also a compost activator. The leaves will break down the compost heap in half the usual time (in two to three months). Or just chop up the leaves and place around the garden. You can also try trench digging. Dig a trench 150mm wide 150mm deep as long as you require, then half fill the trench with chopped up comfrey leaves, replace the soil, then sow your seeds on top. As the leaves decompose they will feed your plants the nutrients they require Comfrey has nitrogen, calcium, potash and phosphorus, greater than any animal manures, and it is also a good foliage spray. The average garden will require around seven plants for a continual supply of leaves all year around. Link

A Light Salad, Please - and Make it to go...

"Containerizing" your indoor or outdoor garden. Many reasons to do this, from being able to bring the plants indoors, to move them to a totally new location, to make moving bulbs (and finding them) easier, to fend off varmints, and more. Here are some links to some great ideas for "bagged gardens" (you can also google "grow bags" with or without quotes for even more):
Using the mesh bag on your bulbs to confound the moles and gophers -

• "...Fruits and vegetables are sometimes sold in brightly coloured plastic mesh sacks with one end stapled and the top end closed with a twist-tie or small square of slit plastic. I've been saving them for planting my bulbs in..." link
• ".. I decided I didn't like messing with them, as the bright green edges looked unattractive sticking out of the dirt and because it was a chore to move or divide the bulbs in them. They did foil the gophers, though...."
• "...Regarding making one's own from wire: Don't use chicken wire -- small rodents can go right through it. However, there is a small-mesh product called "aviary wire" that stops them. Hardware cloth is even better. However, after some years of experience, I don't recommend using any kind of wire mesh in a buried situation. It rusts, and when you go to remove it, it pulls apart and is an awful mess. Pieces can remain hidden in the ground to interfere with cultivation for years...."

Short and sweet, this is a link to the Royal Horticultural Societies site about salad bags. Link
Container Gardening for Dummies - yes, the black and yellow book makers have broken into the gardening realm. "...The container must be big enough. A minimum size for most vegetables and herbs is a diameter of 8 inches and depth of 12 inches, but a diameter of 12 to 18 inches and a depth of 15 inches is preferable — the larger size can accommodate the necessary volume of soil and water. And the container must have drain holes at the bottom. Vegetables and herbs can be found thriving in all sorts of containers that meet the size and drainage requirements, but that miss the boat in beauty: leaky buckets, garbage cans with holes, large plastic buckets from delicatessens, and even plastic milk jugs. ..." Link
How about helping your barista out? "...The next time you order an espresso to go, ask for a burlap coffee bag, to go, too. Lightweight (and free!) coffee bags are a unique way to add gardening space to your yard, and recycle at the same.
I planted the coffee bag you see at right, with pink geraniums, yellow calendulas, Alaska nasturtiums and other annuals. I placed it at the edge of my driveway, next to a row of black plastic containers of currants and tayberries (a blackberry-raspberry cross). ..." Link